ML350 2004 door locks (2) makes noise does not lock randomly, others OK.
Strange, first just front passenger side was having machine gun door issue, now suddenly that became OK, same instant, problem shifted to rear driver side, goes up and down machine gun noise.
Is this individual door actuator problem? if so, how automatically without doing anything front passenger side became OK on its OWN. Driver side rear actuator was replaced 2 years ago, why did it break again, is the problem somewhere else? common controller? signal issue?
Are you 100% sure our black key fob shell that use 2 batteries will work with only 1 battery?
Keyecu say NO that this chrome key shell is NOT an upgrade but a replacement shell for an existing chrome key shell (very misleading information many has MB drivers has damaged their key circuitboard ending up with no working key
Can anyone confirm please?
Scanner tell me it's the driver side airbag. I have checked all connections and checked resistance of the driverside airbag it the same as the passenage side.Unpluged passenage side it gave me a code was able to reset it with no problems. Anyone have any suggestions. Thanks
Need to know where the aux battery is on a 2012 e350 coupe "C207"
It is not in the trunk and I have taken the drivers side dash apart with no luck. All the info I can find is for a w212 that shows removing the panel on the side of the dash with a bolt holding the battery box. I do not have this. Any help would be appreciated or pictures of it's location.
I have a C240 Mercedes with 220k miles. I had the Drive in S (sport mode). I was putting along on a busy interstate and floored it to change lanes. As soon as I did this something seemed like it slipped and then it went into limp mode in 2nd gear.
I drove it about 3 miles after that. I parked it and unhooked the battery cables and touched the positive and negative cables per the instruction of a friend. This was to get it out of limp mode and discharge any residual current that might be stored. I started it and it clunked going into reverse. I got it out on the road and it was still stuck in 2nd gear.
I tried to drive it home about 70 miles so I drove about 50 mph in 2nd gear. Stopped to get gas and when I restarted the car it was in 1st gear. Tried unhooking the cables and let it sit for a while and could not get it to shift into 2nd, still stuck in 1st.
Took it to a friend who cleared all the codes and he told me 3rd gear is out of it and it needs a new transmission.
The car had been sitting for a week in my drive: I started it, put it into reverse (no clunking noise), backed it out and when I took off it was in 1st gear, it shifted into 2nd but still will not shift into 3rd. When I slowed down and stopped it did not go back into 1st it was again stuck in 2nd.
I have read through several articles on this page. Many state that it is probably not the transmission but electrical. Reaching out to someone who is in the know for a diagnosis.
During the hurricane I was unable to use regular gas. I was using the high end gas. Now my check engine light is on. Does this have anything to do with it. Also my back brake light is out. Cause this be why my check engine light is on?
Recently engine noise louder than normal, not knocking or humming, just overall louder and a bit sluggish. Oil, plugs and air filter recently replaced but did not solve problem. Pls help with troubleshoot - thanks
Hi, I bought a CLA 117 from auction which had a minor accident. Problem the car cranks but dont start. Checked with XENTRY and removed all faults. I found feom Xentry about INHIBIT OF ENGINE AFTER CRASH EVENT IS SET TO NOT ACTIVE.. Wanted to know if it should be active or inactive